Why it’s time to rethink Beaujolais.

Oenophiles

Many drinkers’ only reference point for Beaujolais is the barely drinkable plonk that hits our shores every year around Thanksgiving. Many readers may be checking the calendar right now to confirm the date because unfortunately for the storied region between Burgundy and the Rhône Valley, Beaujolais is usually only mentioned for the annual Beaujolais Nouveau release on the third Thursday of November. It goes along. . Yet there is little in common between this Beaujolais Nouveau and the more serious, oaky older versions, particularly the 10 crus of Beaujolais. And if you’ve only experienced the former, we’re here to convince you to drink the latter.

Beaujolais wine is made with 100 percent Gamay, a grape native to France – most likely Burgundy – that is a natural cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, a white grape that is almost extinct but left its mark on the wine world. It’s done. This is where the similarities between Beaujolais Nouveau and Beaujolais largely end. However, one is allowed to defame the good name of the other.

Beaujolais’ poor reputation in the U.S. goes back to the 1980s, when one of the region’s major producers, Georges Dubeuf, bucked the French tradition of rushing only fermented wines to the Paris market — just eight weeks after harvest. extended What began as a quaint French tradition in the wake of WWII became an international marketing phenomenon, with liquor stores and French restaurants in the United States displaying signs proclaiming “Le Beaujolais Nouveau Est Arrivé” and Banners are showing. And people declared that this fresh and fruity style of red wine was the perfect match for Thanksgiving turkey, cementing its place in the culture. While it’s still exciting to experience what’s known as a Beaujolais Day at a winery in France, tasting several glasses and comparing the different expressions of small producers, the United States is much more common than Duboeuf and some other large wineries. was drowned with juice.

Julie Pitoiset, winemaker and director of Château des Jacques, explains that after World War II, “Beaujolais made wines with a fruity style with new techniques like carbonic maceration,” a modern fermentation using carbon dioxide. method associated with Beaujolais Nouveau. Unlike the barrel-aged wines that Pitoiset makes at Château des Jacques, the wine released two months after the grapes are picked barely has enough time to settle and integrate well. Pitoiset prefers to wait at least five years to open a bottle of her estate-produced wines from Morgan and Moulin-à-Vent, two of the region’s crus—and she says that with good weather she Can last 50 years or more in bottle.

The negativity surrounding gamma has deeper roots than the 1980s, reaching back to the Middle Ages. In 1395, Philip II, Duke of Burgundy, banned the cultivation of this variety in the region because its high yields made it more valuable to wine merchants than Faucier Pinot Noir, which was considered a superior grape. was When Gamay’s vines were torn down in the Côte d’Or and replaced with Pinot Noir, Gamay found a new home in the south in Beaujolais. However, its troubles did not end at the end of the 14th century, as it was outlawed several times in 1455, 1567 and the 1700s. As recently as 2011, 40 Beaujolais communes lost the ability to label some of their wines as “Burgundy”. If it seems like poor Beaujolais can’t catch a break, it may finally be time to because Pinot Noir from its neighbor to the north has become too expensive for many consumers, especially restaurant markups. I, and is unaware of its nouveau incarnation as a young drinker. It cannot have any negative impression.

At Chateau du Moulin-à-Vent, proprietor Edouard Parinet believes that sommeliers, corporate buyers, and wine writers have an idealized opinion of Beaujolais, which is, sadly, out of reach for the wine-loving public. did not come He thinks that in the short term, at least, Beaujolais has a leg up on other regions as climate change wreaks havoc on vineyards around the world. “Some of the best wines produced at Château du Moulin-à-Vent are from the oldest and driest vintages ever,” he explains, adding that the area’s sandy soil, which is the oldest vines in the château. is home to, giving his wines “structure and strength. So they last longer.” A recent vertical tasting of his wines in 1967 proved his claim. They had power, sophistication and elegance and yet retained bright cherry and pomegranate flavors with a touch of spice and earth. The same high acidity that makes young Beaujolais an easy-drinking winter libation helps it age. Older wines with limited acidity tend to be flat on the palate, a stark contrast to the vivid liveliness that older vintages taste like.

While both Chateau du Moulin-à-Vent and Château des Jacques trace their roots back to the 18th century, eponymous domaine Jonathan Pay has just released its first bottling, the 2022 Morgan “Belleau.” Jonathan Pay, cofounder of Textbook on Napa Valley, explained to us that he was drawn to Beaujolais’ Morgan and Fleury Croix for their pink granite and schist soils, steep slopes, altitude, rich winemaking history and abundant rainfall. . After witnessing the devastating effects of climate change – droughts, wildfires and smog [in California]—I decided to go for it,” he says, noting the value it offers. All of these wines were priced the same, so it’s a limited-production, hand-crafted wine made from dry-farmed vines planted “when Truman was president.” It sells for about $35 in the United States.

Having spent years in Napa, Pay explains that working with Cabernet Sauvignon and Gamay is completely different, as opposed to the highly manipulative, long-aging style of winemaking that Cabernet often requires. “Gayme is often briefly fermented as a whole cluster or with a few stems to increase grip,” he says. “It has cold fermentation that captures the aroma, texture, and vibrant fruit and is typically not aged in oak barrels.”

The 10 crus of Beaujolais are, from north to south, Saint Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Côte de Brouilly, and Brouilly. Bottles from one of these villages will be labeled with that name instead of Beaujolais. Chris is located in the north of the region, just south of Maconès in Burgundy, and its rolling hills and rocky soil offer excellent examples of terroir-driven wines. Wines labeled Beaujolais Village are from the 38 communes just south of here, while the more common AOC Beaujolais bottling comes from communes in the south of the region, which is flatter and has more soil in its vineyards. Expect aromas of cherry and raspberry and flavors of bright red berries with vanilla, spice, violet, and earthiness. Serve slightly chilled — about 60 degrees Fahrenheit — in a Pinot Noir glass. If you don’t have a wine fridge, refrigerate for 20 minutes. Pair with hard cheeses, roast or fried chicken, or grilled pork.

While not all gamés are designed for long-term aging, bottles will mature well for five to 10 years. Even the best Beaujolais has a soft tannic structure that is perfect for warm weather enjoyment. As Pitoiset points out, wine enthusiasts are looking for vin de terroir with an eye to geographic origin and environment. With many wineries engaged in organic or biodynamic farming, Beaujolais offers it all. Producers to look out for include Guy Breton, Stéphane Averon, Marcel Lapierre, Chateau Thion, Mont-Besse, and of course the aforementioned. Whatever you do in your exploration of this underappreciated territory, please don’t wait six months to grab a barely fermented screw-capped bottle at the in-laws and then put it on the Thanksgiving table. Beaujolais deserve better.

Rob Report